Archive for March, 2008

Sporty heels

Monday, March 17th, 2008

It’s interesting that some women are more comfortable in heels than flats, feeling that flats are unflattering and don’t provide the support of a heel. Feeling awkward in flat shoes usually makes fashion sneakers a no-no, but with heeled fashion sneakers coming back, they might be an option after all.

I’m personally sticking to flat All Star Converse, but if you like the idea of an uber-casual heeled shoe, the wedged sneaker trend is for you. You won’t look odd wearing this heel to a sporting event.

Michael Kors 'Heidi' SneakerSteve Madden's Fix EnigmaaaSteve Madden's Fix 'Shape Up' Mary JaneSteve Madden's Fix Brashh

I had a pair of athletic inspired wedges in the ‘90’s, but they weren’t as sleek as the styles that have surfaced this season. I’ve tried on the silver pair on the right and they are very comfortable.

Online shopping takes off

Friday, March 14th, 2008

This recent article in UK Guardian reports that fashion e-tail is a big growth area in the United Kingdom, with 97% of British web users shopping online. Apparently 36% of these shoppers are buying clothes. This is an increase of 40% in the past two years.

I only started shopping online regularly about 18 months ago. Clothing, footwear and accessories are extremely tangible and the thought of purchasing a product without inspecting it or trying it on was beyond my comprehension. In the end it was the frustration of not getting a particular size, colour or style in brick and mortar stores that won me over.

I started doing the Zappos thing and was pleasantly surprised at how painless it was. Their product reviews are accurate and the shipping is free. I gained online shopping confidence and started ordering a variety of product categories from Esprit, Nordstrom, Tulle, Spiegel, Macy’s and Bare Necessities. So far so good.

I’m still discerning about what I order on-line. It isn’t always possible, but I prefer to order a clothing item via the internet after I’ve seen it in the flesh. I also like to order from sites that allow in-store returns. I buy a small proportion of my clothes online - probably less than 5%. But for underwear and shoes the online percentage is closer to 50%.

Tell us about your online shopping habits. How much of your wardrobe is purchased through e-tail? Do you return a sizable portion of what you purchase through the internet? Which items do you prefer to buy online and which do your prefer to purchase in store?

A comfy Spring flat

Thursday, March 13th, 2008

I’m always on the hunt for comfortable shoes that look fab and I recently scored another pair. They’re dressy Anne Klein snip-toe ballet flats with an ultra soft flexible sole that cushions the foot beautifully. Shoes with decorative buckles on their vamps often cut into your skin as you walk because the buckles spill over the edge of the shoe. But these buckles don’t because they’re positioned away from the edge. They’re also cut low enough so that none of the bones on my feet chaff against the sides of the shoe. My hopes are high that this ped will make the “8-hour” mark.

I ordered these shoes because the Zappos reviews were very encouraging. I can’t tell whether they offer enough arch support because I don’t seem to have a problem with the arches of my feet; but they’re soft and a lot more substantial than many of the flats around. You might need to go up half size if your feet are a little wider because the toe box is snug. Roll on Spring, I can’t wait to break in my new skimmers.

Anne Klein Impress - Pink PatentAnne Klein Impress - Taupe SnakeAnne Klein Impress - Yellow Patent

These flats are available in patent and leather in a variety of colours.

Fabrics 101: knits versus wovens

Wednesday, March 12th, 2008

Apart from animal hide, all fabrics fall into one of two categories: knits or wovens. It’s not the fiber content that distinguishes them, it’s the manufacturing process. Yarns like cotton, viscose, rayon, wool, polyester, velvet or silk can either be knitted or woven.

  • Knitted fabrics are produced on huge knitting machines that “knit” different yarns together. These machines use exactly the same hand knitting method to make fabric. They knit a row of plain and a row of pearl at the speed of light to create a “stocking stitch” effect. You’ll see the familiar stocking stitch pattern on knitted items if you look closely. All knitted fabrics stretch. T-shirt fabric, sweatshirt fabric, knitwear (fabric that sweaters and cardigans are made from), jersey, mesh, toweling, felt and La Coste fabric are examples of typical knitted fabrics.
  • Woven fabrics are produced on huge looms that “weave” different yarns together by interlacing threads both horizontally and vertically. Woven fabrics do not stretch unless Lycra, elastic or spandex fibers are woven into the fabric at the same time. This is how button down shirts and jeans get their stretch. Linen, denim, cotton twill, satin, chiffon, corduroy, tweed and canvas are examples of typical woven fabrics.

It’s important to distinguish between knits and wovens because each fabric type has a set of good and bad properties. See if you can distinguish between what’s knitted or woven in your wardrobe.

Pleats are passé

Tuesday, March 11th, 2008

Blokes, its time to move on from pleated khaki’s or chinos. This is a dated look. So much so that Banana Republic has eliminated pleated styles completely. Most department stores continue to stock pleated chinos because they sell to gents who are none the wiser.

Opt for flat front chinos instead. They’re a lot more flattering and will work for every age and body type.

  • Dress them up smart casually with a tucked button down shirt + undergarment T + dressy shoes + matching belt
  • Dress them down casually with an un-tucked T or polo shirt + fashion sneakers.

Flat front chinos are classic and preppy. I wouldn’t call them funky, trendy or sleek, but they’re a pretty decent smart casual look that’s often appropriate in a conservative work setting if dressy jeans are not permitted.

Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Ralph Lauren Siena Golf PantNordstrom Smartcare™ Pleat Pants

Pleated chinos are passé.

Slim Fit Flat Front Clean KhakisRelaxed Pin-Dot ChinoRelaxed Dawson Chino

Flat front chinos are current and flattering.

The bright skinny fad

Monday, March 10th, 2008

High fashion retailers in the USA are selling brightly coloured, ultra skinny jeans and my Euro sources tell me that this style is all over London, Paris and Germany too. I saw glimpses of this denim movement last season and also when I was recently in Spain. It’s a scream. I owned red, turquoise and fuchsia pairs with ankle zips 25 years ago.

Apparently the idea is to treat this silhouette more like leggings than pants this time around. So you’re supposed to wear these lurid skinnies under tunics and dresses instead of tops. Either way I’m bypassing this trend; but I’ll admit that I’m strangely attracted to the look because it’s a hilarious blast from my ‘80’s past.

I wouldn’t be surprised if this trend appeals to today’s teenyboppers and youngsters because it’s so different to most of the silhouettes they’ve been exposed to for the last two decades. I wonder what’s next. Home perm kits and crimping curlers perhaps?

Beverly JeanBeverly JeanKill City Neon JeanLevi's® eco Skinny Jeans

My prediction: this look is a fad that’s going to disappear after one season.

Preferred shopping categories

Friday, March 7th, 2008

It’s interesting that different product categories tickle our fancy to different degrees when we shop. Some of us love to shop for shoes and bags, while others prefer to shop for skirts and dresses. After being in the fashion game for ages, I have concluded that this is a very personal thing, greatly influenced by individual and regional differences.

Here’s my personal list, ordered from best to worst:

  • Favourites: jackets, bags, tunics, coats, blousie tops and knitwear
  • Least Favourites: shoes (particularly Summer shoes), bras, skirts, socks and workout wear

I feel the cold quickly, so it is a good thing that jackets and coats are high on my list. On the other hand, a fashion stylist who doesn’t like to shop for shoes is not the norm. I love looking at shoes and dressing my clients in them, but it’s become increasingly frustrating shopping for my own shoes. Fussy feet and fabulous shoes do not go hand in hand.

I’d love to hear your list. I suspect that it will be quite different.

Casual tops: beware the T-shirt

Thursday, March 6th, 2008

All T-shirts are not created equal. They have to be well made and fit perfectly to look good. The best are interesting tailored T’s that are longer in length and made of thicker and better-end, cotton-rich fabrications. These drape well and add structure to the body. Good quality basic T’s are fine when used as layering pieces under jackets, shirts and knitwear. Adding a camisole to this look adds depth and interest.

There are also good casual alternatives to the T-shirt:

  • Knitted tops look better than T’s because they’re styled and made of superior knitted fabrics (not T-shirt fabric). I encourage the purchase of knitted tops over T-shirts because their appearance is more refined, which becomes more important as you get older.
  • Knitwear is my favourite option for a casual dress code because these items always look great if they’re tailored in the right places. Both chunky knits and finer knits work well.
  • Woven tops like soft, fitted button down shirts or casual cotton and linen blousie tops are super and especially good for warm weather.

It’s hard to accomplish a stylish appearance in a T-shirt. They’re either overly clingy, too short, boxy, adolescent or just plain unattractive. They don’t launder well and look sloppy fast. Ever-so-stylish Jennifer Aniston gets the T-shirt look right because she has the perfect body, a polished look, and top notch accessories. Be very discerning when you wear T-shirts and add them to your wardrobe. If you don’t look terrific in a T, wear something else. You have many other casual options to choose from.

Develop an eye for quality

Wednesday, March 5th, 2008

I was annoyed with what I saw in Prada’s Spring collection at Barney’s last week: a black, unlined, poorly made, ultra lightweight, 100% nylon, dowdy looking double-breasted trench selling for $1895. It wasn’t the price that annoyed me because you can expect insane price tags on new collection items from fashion brands like Prada, Chanel, Gucci and Cavalli. It’s the inferior quality, bad fit and uninspiring design of the garment that got to me. The very least that one should expect from any designer piece is impeccable quality, luxurious fabric, superior fit and exclusive design innovation. Some designer houses do satisfy this criteria, and then there is the rest.

In the rag trade, more expensive does not necessarily mean better and vice versa. Even top designers like to cut corners to increase profit margins. Don’t assume that a Marc Jacobs original is beautifully made and will launder well because of its price and the status attached to the brand (his prêt-a porter collections look particularly shoddy). This is why you need to develop an eye for good quality. You’ll save yourself lots of money if you do. Don’t be put off walking into stores that you perceive as having poor quality items. Chances are high that you’ll find something unique and of acceptable quality if you know what to look for.

Join a discussion on distinguishing good quality from bad in the YLF forum.

Armani Collezioni 'Sand Dollar Print' Belted Kimono JacketBurberry London Gold Single Breasted Trench CoatDonna Karan Collection 'Floating Dots' Skirt

I’ve seen these particular designer pieces up close and they were superbly made (with a price to match!)

Banana Republic’s new look

Tuesday, March 4th, 2008

Banana Republic has lacked flair for some time, but there is hope for a comeback this season. I recently found out from sources at the chain that a new design team is heading up the ladies wear merchandise department. Spring 2008 is the new design team’s debut collection and I like what I’m seeing in stores. The products look a little more interesting, fashion forward and fun. I would like to see Banana Republic succeed because I enjoy their quality, size range and great sales. Be sure to give this retailer another chance if they vanished from your radar like they did from mine. I’ve got my eye on them this season.

Short-Sleeve Pleated V-Neck DressOrange Lady Coat & White JeanPuff-Sleeve Top & Boot-Cut Jean

Don’t be alarmed by these brights if they’re not your thing. There are still plenty of neutrals to choose from at Banana Republic.

 
 

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