Archive for September, 2008

Mid-season rant: an overdose of short puffed sleeves

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

A puffed sleeve is gathered at the sleeve crown and hem. It’s appearance is usually poufy because of the volume both at the shoulder and at the base of the sleeve.

I’m all for feminine details on blouses, tops, jackets, coats and frocks, but the puffed sleeve epidemic is becoming frustrating. A great fashion season is one that offers variety to its customers, but I don’t see a great enough assortment of sleeve silhouettes in store right now. Especially with petites, where the challenge is often to prevent my clients from looking like their young daughters. Perhaps we need a hip designer to showcase a collection of “Not Your Daughter’s Tops”.

Puffed sleeves can look fabulous on a certain body type and at a certain age. Pretty pears with narrow shoulders and youth on their side look killer in short puffed sleeves. But it often isn’t a flattering sleeve silhouette, especially on an older woman. It tends to look cutesy and juvenile instead of stylish and sophisticated. It also isn’t a good look for women with broad shoulders and strong shoulder lines, as it tends to make that body type look top-heavy.

I personally enjoy fun sleeves that are gathered at the crown, but sleek at the hem, in a three-quarter or long length. This type of voluminous sleeve looks more streamlined and age-appropriate if you’re in your late 30’s and older. But they aren’t easy to find because the short puffed sleeve is out of control.

Three-Button Yoke Front PulloverHammered Satin Ruffle Collar TopCotton Dotted Texture Shirt

See what I mean? What are your thoughts on all the short puffed sleeves in store at the moment?

Clamdiggers with knee-high boots

Monday, September 29th, 2008

Clamdiggers with knee-high boots eliminate “tucking-fuss” and are quite a hip expression if the variables are right. This is not a flop-proof look: The clamdiggers need to be long-ish, and the boots have to fit snugly against the calf. Here are some “dos” and “don’ts” for the combination:

  • Tucking? Yes. You can tuck if the clamdiggers are long enough. YLF Forum member Sarah did a super job of tucking clamdiggers into her new, killer riding boots.
  • Above the knee clams? Maybe. I don’t think the look will work as well with above-the-knee clamdiggers. But it’s definitely worth a bash if you own a pair of clams and a set of fairly casual knee-high boots.
  • Walk shorts or cropped pants? Not really. These are not ideal substitutes for clamdiggers in this formula. You’re after “the skinny jeans vibe”, sans the skinny jeans, which makes anything wider at the hems a less current look.
  • Turning up the hems? Not really. You’re after a long lean line, so turning up clamdigger hems is not a good idea. Keep them either tucked or un-tucked.

I wore clams with knee high boots last season and I’m sporting the look again. Comfy, funky and practical in the Seattle rain because your jeans don’t get wet. My clams are best un-tucked and I show a bit of skin with my slightly shorter pair of brown embroidered boots (picture 3 below). That’s okay. It looks a little cheeky and I like that.

Patent BootsRiding BootsEmbroidered BootsDoc Marten Boots

(1) Weatherproof half ‘n half low wedged boots (microfiber and cracked patent), (2) Riding boots, (3) Retro embroidered boots, (4) 20 eyelet Doc Martens .

What is effortless style?

Friday, September 26th, 2008

A current, polished, pulled together and appropriate look is a prerequisite for being stylish. But there is another more subtle requirement: your style must also seem effortless. If it is forced, impractical, fussy and unnatural, you risk being dubbed a fashion victim.

“Effortless style” is a contradiction in terms because looking stylish actually requires some effort. Style icons Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Cate Blanchett, Jennifer Aniston, Kate Moss and Helen Mirren spent years honing their personal style. They did not miraculously wake up one day and look effortlessly stylish.

Achieving a stylish appearance definitely gets easier with practice, especially if you have a set of efficient and effective wardrobe choices. But irrespective of how well put together you are, your sense of style is still something you will need to maintain. You need to think about it on an ongoing basis as fashion, your body and your lifestyle change.

So how does one achieve an “effortless” sense of style? Is it about a look, or is it wrapped up in an attitude? What makes you think that someone is “trying too hard”? I have my own thoughts, but I’d love to hear yours first.

Fabulous washed-wool scarves from J. Crew

Thursday, September 25th, 2008

J. Crew is offering an assortment of wonderful washed-wool scarves and the picture below does not do them justice. Solid colours, ombre, or polka dots for $49 to $59. There are at least 20 different options to select from in stores at the moment and it’s well worth a look. Don’t let the uninspiring picture and lack of online choices put you off.

I have a wool allergy that makes me come out in a bad rash when I wear it close to my skin. But I’m willing to try items with a wool composition on the off chance that I can comfortably sport the item without breaking out in hives. I own a few wool pashminas that do not itch and this has given me hope.

I loved these scarves when I saw them in J. Crew and promptly tested one in store. I walked around looking at their merchandise for 10 minutes with the scarf Euro-looped around my neck. No hives, no fuss and best of all, a subtle fringe that I won’t need to remove. I was sold.

The scarves are very lightweight and come with a swing ticket that suggests three ways of tying them: “choker style”, “simple ascot” and “hacking knot”. Nice one J. Crew. If it isn’t too cold in your neck of the woods, wait a while and score this little gem when it goes on sale.

Ombre Washed-Wool Scarf

I saw green, coral, yellow, raspberry, turquoise, cream and black solid colours. There were blue, green, taupe, pink, grey and yellow ombre versions, and black, cherry, yellow and orange solids with cream polka dots. I came home with the black and cream polka dot and the client I was with bought the green one.

Over-the-knee boots: arty or tarty

Wednesday, September 24th, 2008

This look is fringe, very fringe. I can’t think of a more dramatic pair of peds than high-heeled, over-the-knee boots. The Chanel pair Anne Hathaway wore in “The Devil Wears Prada” caused quite a stir.

I’m on the fence about the look. Part of me feels that a black, pointy-toed and stiletto heeled pair looks trashy and just far too much leather for one outfit. Throw patent into the mix and it’s dominatrix deluxe. But another part of me feels that a flat, suede pair in a colour other than black might be fun if you have the gams. A pair like the taupe ones below could be sweet under a shorter flowy dress with tights, or over skinny jeans with girly blouse. The pair worn with the pink tights looks equestrian and I rather like that look too.

Help me decide whether over-the-knee boots are sassy, or unstylish. Is there a way of making them look effortlessly chic, or will they always scream fashion victim?

Teresa Over the Knee BootOver-the-Knee Zip BootStuart Weitzman Women's 50-50 Low Black BootJoie Dream Some Over The Knee Boot in Mushroom Suede

10 ways to add texture to your ensemble

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

I adore clothing, shoes and accessories with interesting textures because they add aesthetic appeal and depth to an ensemble. Textures generate charm because they create contrast (the same way bold colours can do so). A monochromatic outfit looks infinitely better when the items are texture-rich.

A recent Nordstrom catalog did a brilliant job of summarizing ways in which you can add texture to your Autumn and Winter wardrobe. Here’s the lowdown (their categories, my words):

  1. A feminine blouse with ruffles creates a strong contrast against wools and tweeds. If ruffles aren’t your thing, try blouses in iridescent fabrications, lace, jacquards or satin.
  2. Booties with patent, mock croc, sueded or distressed leather trims do wonders to enhance an outfit.
  3. Coats made of mottled tweeds or abstract jacquards stand out. So do coats with leather trims and fabrics with sheen and luster.
  4. Cheeky pencil skirts with kick-pleats, cascading waterfall ruffles and front ruching details look three-dimensional. Purchase them in interesting fabrics and you’ve taken texture to the top.
  5. Trousers in menswear fabrics like checks and tweeds are retro and scream Autumn.
  6. Soft knit sweater dresses are luscious against stiff, structured woven sateen trenches. Add sueded boots and you’re in business.
  7. Cropped jackets in leather, tartan, velvet and boiled wool look particularly good against stiff jeans.
  8. Hosiery is the easiest way to add texture to a skirt or frock ensemble. Think delicate florals, geometric shapes, antique lace, crocodile patterns or micro fishnets.
  9. Simpler embossed or quilted satchels are a nice change to plain leather handbags with excessive hardware. I love cracked patent, but rice-paper pleather is just as fab.
  10. Statement jewelry like cuffs with oversized stones, antique brooches or vintage glass rings are alternative ways of adding decorative texture to your look.

For some reason Nordies have left scarves off their list. I’m adding them in because they can add a super contrasting texture to an outfit. I personally like something soft and silky with leather or pleather jackets.

I love outfits with interesting textures. It’s my preferred way of dressing because I’m a sucker for nice fabric. One of my personal wardrobe rules is that if I’m going to buy an item in a neutral colour, it has to be textured. It prevents me from getting bored with the item and gives rise to neutral ensembles with loads of sass.

Tweed and Patent with Denim Shine with Denim
Ruffles with Wool
Satin with Leather

Mixing and matching textures to create a contrast: (1) tweed and patent with denim, (2) shine with denim, (3) satin with leather and (4) ruffles with wool.

Camisole of the moment

Monday, September 22nd, 2008

I wear a camisole virtually every day. My favourite brand and style, perhaps surprisingly, is the BP. stretch camisole from the junior department at Nordstrom for $12 a piece.

These camis are made of a rich cotton-spandex and bound with a pretty sateen. They come in about 20 different solid colours and have sufficient length for layering if you’re petite or regular height. The neckline is pretty high and the fabric stability is impressive. They don’t have a shelf bra and are as soft and comfy as can be.

They run a little small, so go up a size. I’ve triplicated my black and white camis and bought a few other colours. Despite getting washed and tumble-dried frequently, they have lasted quite well. It’s a win.

Which are your current favourite camisole brands and why?

BP. Stretch Camisole - Rasberry BP. Stretch Camisole - Charcoal BP. Stretch Camisole - Juniper

Nordstrom offers additional colours at store level. Unfortunately, there are only six shades to choose from online.

Heels for babies

Friday, September 19th, 2008

I was intrigued when a friend passed along the link to heelarious.com. It’s a site that sells high heeled shoes for infants 0-6 months old. Absurd.

But it’s not quite as ridiculous as it sounds. The shoes are completely soft and collapse with weight. They are decorative and true “sitting shoes”, not meant for walking. They’re available in a variety of colours and retail for $35.

I laughed at this idea. My first department as a fashion buyer was babywear and I wondered whether I’d have bought in heelarious shoes as part of the store’s collection. I don’t think so. These peds (on the left below) look a little witchy and vampish. Perhaps they could be cute as part of a Halloween costume along with jail-bird striped stockings, a black frock, pointy hat and broomstick.

The invention is creative though. And in moderation, high-fashion clothing can be very cute on babies and children. I remember making a dear little Levis denim jacket part of my Autumn Infants range one season. It was utterly adorable. But our child would not sport her first fashion heels at this age. If baby had to match Mummy’s black patent heels, she’d wear the little flats on the right below.

She's a Little LadyPazitos Ballerina

Sophisticated Style

Thursday, September 18th, 2008

The July 2008 issue of InStyle magazine described sophisticated style as follows:

Feminine but not frilly, seductive but not showy, you live for luxury but are allergic to bling. Grace Kelly is your ideal, and Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Carolina Herrera are your sartorial guardian angels”.

This is pretty close to my interpretation of sophisticated style. Clothes and accessories are streamlined, refined and tailored. Colour combinations are clean-cut and crisp. The fit and finish on garments is impeccable and you are polished to the extreme.

I think this approach makes it easier to look chic, but I also thoroughly enjoy looking a little less sophisticated and more arty and playful from time to time. There is room for both fashion personas and, in my opinion, they are equally stylish.

I’d like to open up an interesting discussion that started on the forum: Do you aspire to a sophisticated style, or do you feel “severe and unapproachable” when you dress this way.

Waistcoats add an arty edge

Wednesday, September 17th, 2008

Waistcoat: a fitted sleeveless garment that forms the third part of a man’s formal three-piece suit. Waistcoats are usually worn over a shirt and under a long sleeved jacket. In America these items are referred to as “vests”.

I fancy the androgynous and playful look of a waistcoat. They’re decorative, structured and add layering interest to an ensemble. Eclectic waistcoats are once again on trend and might be worth a try if you don’t have one already.

I prefer waistcoats in woven suiting fabrics because that’s how the item was originally intended (as part of a man’s suit). But woven waistcoats can pose challenges for bustier gals. “Locking and loading” below the bust is an option if the stance is low and the rest of the waistcoat fits well. Alternatively, fine-gauge, tailored knitted waistcoats are available in “knitwear fabrications” (not jersey). They will stretch comfortably over the bust and offer a similar mood to their woven counterparts.

Wearing a waistcoat with a button-down is the typical pairing. But thinking out-of-the-box is even better. Consider popping a waistcoat over the following pieces for a change:

  • Soft blouse: a tailored and strict waistcoat over a soft girly blouse creates a yummy contrast.
  • T-shirt or knitted top: I’m condoning formfitting printed and plain T’s as layering items for under waistcoats. The sky must be falling down. Surprisingly, it’s a nice edgy look.
  • Dress: A similar contrast is created when a soft, flowing dress is matched with a rigid waistcoat. I also like a structured sheath dress matched with a tailored waistcoat. Both looks add a fun dimension to frocks when you’re resting you’re denim jacket and cardigan.
  • Sleeveless: waistcoats look super layered over sleeveless tops. It’s a good way of achieving an Autumn look when the weather is warm.

My friend Laurel wore a fabulous waistcoat ensemble last week. She layered a black woven waistcoat over a soft, black polka-dot blouse, and matched it with an abstract patterned cream, black and red knee-length, slightly A-line skirt. I was impressed with how well the mismatched patterns worked. Laurel looked arty, funky and pulled together. Her outfit was a great little transitional look.

City Style Glenn Plaid VestReversible VestMilitary Canvas Vest in KhakiMatty M 'Central Park Suiting' Button Front Vestcrop-vest.jpgChulo Pony 'Edie' Crop VestECI Vested Blouse

An assortment of neutral woven waistcoats over button-down shirts, blouses, T-shirts, and a dress.

 
 

Find Shoes on Sale!