The unbuttoned jacket
September 10th, 2008Tailored single-breasted jackets and blazers that are left un-buttoned are usually more flattering. They create a natural vertical line that elongates the silhouette, and draws the eye up-and-down. Leaving a jacket un-buttoned is also more comfortable and shows off interesting layering detail.
Bustier gals and gals who are a little broader in the shoulder can battle with jacket-button closure. The jacket fits everywhere else, but can’t button up. Going up a size means that the buttons will fasten, but that the shoulder line, sleeve length and torso are sloppy. An experienced and superb seamstress can alter anything, but jackets are tricky and expensive to alter (especially if they have lining). In this instance, alteration is often not worth the price and effective results are not guaranteed.
So I’m giving you the go-ahead to purchase a jacket or blazer that doesn’t close across the bust area, if it fits perfectly in all other respects. Obviously, outerwear trenches, coats, parkas and gear need to button up for practical reasons. There is little sense in braving the elements for aesthetics. But I’m fine with leaving other types of jackets unbuttoned as a cost-effective, stress-free and comfy solution.
September 10th, 2008 at 7:23 am
Yay! I love when Angie gives us permission to do practical things!
September 10th, 2008 at 7:46 am
Hurray for practicality! (Although sadly I don’t have a large bust problem … classic pear … sigh … )
September 10th, 2008 at 7:57 am
Thanks for the tip Angie! I love your help!
September 10th, 2008 at 7:57 am
I have a few jackets that look great unbuttoned but too tight when buttoned. I wore them unbuttoned any way but was not sure if I had broken the ‘rules’. Now I’m relieved. I love practical rules!
September 10th, 2008 at 8:00 am
oh thank you. i’ve been reluctant to buy jackets for that very reason.
September 10th, 2008 at 8:03 am
wow, I never knew I could do this! I hadn’t even thought about trying it, so thanks for the tip! It will make jacket shopping easier.
September 10th, 2008 at 8:14 am
Yay, that’s a great tip! My rib cage is bigger than normal and I often struggle with this issue… I’ve passed on many, many jackets because of the top button problem.
September 10th, 2008 at 8:42 am
This never seems to work for me. If I leave a jacket unbuttoned and I’m walking against a breeze, it flies open and I find it uncomfortable to have it flapping around against my arms. I also feel that I lose the shape and structure that is usually the reason for buying the jacket in the first place. From the side I look like a tent. I’m luckily not at a point where I have to size up to accommodate my bust so I hope it stays that way.
September 10th, 2008 at 9:03 am
Halleluja! I always thought I was “breaking” the rules when I did this, so thank you Angie, for giving us permission!
September 10th, 2008 at 9:11 am
oh, I wanted to add - the only disadvantage with this is that by not buttoning, you don’t get that “lock and load” effect that the WNTW people are always taking about on their show. This is especially important for us busty gals to help with waist definition as we do sometimes see that tent effect that Maya is talking about otherwise. I find that for myself going un-buttoned works O.K. for darker jackets or when the fabric is not stiff so that it fits close to the body in the torso.
September 10th, 2008 at 9:15 am
I agree! I will still try to button the middle button like I always do, but then when I sit down it is uncomfortable!
September 10th, 2008 at 9:27 am
Love it! I’m wearing an unbuttoned denim jacket today!
September 10th, 2008 at 11:32 am
Hurrah! I am doing a style consult with a plus sized client tonight and was wondering if this would become an issue. If she shows concern over buying jackets that can’t button, I’ll tell her you’ll back me up!
September 10th, 2008 at 11:32 am
I only own one tailored jacket, bought when I was much thinner and it has been shelved until I reach the size 6-8 I used to be. If it can be worn unbuttoned, I may be able to wear it sooner than I thought! I already wear cardigans unbuttoned for slimming purposes, but never tried this with a jacket.
September 10th, 2008 at 2:31 pm
Angie: I have been looking for a “Ralph Lauren”-style (less the logo) quality, navy light wool blazer for months. I love the look with a white shirt and jeans or chords….but, alas, cannot find one. Ideas?
Linda
September 10th, 2008 at 4:12 pm
It’s important that the jacket fit is right for the “un-buttoned trick” to work. It’s not going to work for double breasted or trapeze styles. Tailoring is crucial. Locking and loading will only work if the jacket stance is below the bust. Keeping a jacket un-buttoned works especially well on jackets with higher stances. I hope that makes sense.
Linda, post your question on the forum for a more informed response. It’s a goodie.
September 11th, 2008 at 6:10 am
Thank you for this post and clarification about which jackets work best this way. It is very helpful!
September 11th, 2008 at 7:13 am
I’ve got another reason to wear an unbuttoned jacket–it makes you seem more approachable to your audience. This is important for public speakers (e.g., trial lawyers). That being said, thank you. My jackets that button look too big. My jacket that looks just right doesn’t button. I feel better about myself now.
September 11th, 2008 at 9:05 am
I’m glad this post was helpful.
Fran, that’s a VERY interesting point. I like your thinking!
September 11th, 2008 at 4:32 pm
Angie- can you clarify what you mean by “lower stance” vs “higher stance” - you’ve said this before and I’m having a hard time picturing (maybe a blog post showing the difference)?
To RealStylePeople: You are supposed to unbutton your jacket when you sit down. You’ll notice for example on Law & Order or other court drama shows, when the lawyer stands up, he buttons his jacket. Men do this naturally: button jacket when they are standing, unbutton as they sit down. I learned that trick early on in the 80s when we wore Power suits with big shoulder pads.
To Maya: I agree about the tent thing. My strategy is to ensure at least ONE button - the one at my waist - can button (while standing - don’t care about sitting). If it’s a three button jacket, the top button is always the tricky one - it will just barely button and I’m afraid if I breathe the button will go flying off!!! This is why I have best luck- and tend to seek out- one button jackets.
To everyone: if all you want is just a pinch of room, check where the buttons are sewn. Often the buttons are sewn an inch away from the edge. These can be moved a little - a sewing operation so easy, anyone can do it, no tailor required. This will give you a pinch more room. (’Course you’d want to move all of them the same distance - not just one).
September 11th, 2008 at 7:03 pm
Linda,
To find a great navy blazer a site I would reccomend going to is J.Crew. They have a hacking jacket that might be what you are looking for:
http://www.jcrew.com/AST/Brows...../74125.jsp
And a Navy cotton jacket at bluefly.com. This might be a good alternative to wool:
http://www.bluefly.com/Priorit.....detail.fly
September 12th, 2008 at 4:42 pm
Great idea Angie. My problem with jackets is that I have strong shoulders and a small chest. I’m not sure what will help with that, besides trying on lots of jackets and tailoring.
September 21st, 2008 at 1:36 pm
I tend to wear jackets that I can’t button but I will never buy anything I can’t fit. I’m very frugal and I just can’t see myself paying money for something that is too small!
September 24th, 2008 at 8:05 am
Can you move the buttons on a double-breasted suit over some to make it a little bigger. I have a short waist….and love double-breasted jackets, however, they are always a little too snug at the bottom button.