Wearing tunics and dresses over jeans or pants is my favourite look. I’m all for outfit variety, but when it comes to a uniform, this is mine. I was first inspired by the look when my late mother sported the trend in the ‘70’s. There’s something extremely elegant AND funky about this ensemble combination and I’ve been besotted with it ever since. I started incorporating this look into my wardrobe 10 years ago and I haven’t looked back.

You don’t need to be tall or tiny to wear tunics and dresses over pants with style. It’s a question of getting the components and proportions right. You’ll need to pair slim boot cuts, straight legs, skinnies, leggings or clamdiggers with the right tunic or dress. Here’s how:

• The correct length: The shorter you are, the shorter you’ll need to go on the tunic or dress. You’re looking at a length somewhere between mid-thigh and a few inches above the knee. Go shorter or longer and you’ve lost that long lean line. Regular height and taller gals can shop in petites for this item as it often brings the hemline up to the correct place.
• The correct silhouette: Pear-shaped and apple-shaped gals need structured A-line silhouettes like shift dresses and baby dolls. Hourglasses, inverted triangles and rectangles get away with straighter and more fitted styles like shirt dresses and sheaths.
• Heels or flats: The trend is especially good with some sort of heel if you’re petite or pear-shaped, but it’s not a necessity. Judge the overall look once the ensemble is complete.

Chances are high you’ll need to commit a tunic or dress to wear over jeans or pants. It’s seldom that a dress will work over pants and on its own. It’s either too short to wear as a dress, or too long to wear over pants. Sometimes dress and tunic lengths work out perfectly and you get the biggest bang for your fashion buck by wearing them both ways, but it’s no guarantee.

Pairing tunics and dresses over pants is comfortable. And the right style tunic or dress is particularly forgiving around the tummy and thigh area if those are spots you’re self conscious about. Don’t be afraid to try something new. You can be a modern-classic that pushes the fashion envelope once in a while.

Tunics of varying lengths worn over pants, jeans and clamdiggers.

These are the types of dresses that work well over pants provided they are the correct length. From left to right: Sheath, shift, shirtdress and baby doll.

Tops over pants look best when they’re worn a little longer. One to three inches above your crotch point (somewhere between where the inseam of your pants start and the zip fly of your pants end) is the perfect length. Hip-bone length is perfect for skirts, but not long enough when you’re wearing pants.

You need to find the specific length that works best for you. Generally, the curvier the thighs, the longer you’ll need to wear your tops. It makes a huge difference when a pretty pear shape wears her tops a little longer. But don’t wear them too long. Tops slightly over crotch point create a horizontal line over the widest part of your body, which is unflattering for pear shapes (but ok for inverted triangles). Fortunately, a top that’s too long can be ruched or “scrunched” to its correct length if you’re short-waisted.

If you haven’t bought tops over the last two years, your cupboard is probably full of shorter lengths. Fashion has moved on and I’m thrilled with the flattering update. Demote shorter tops to wear with skirts and sport a longer length for pants.

Models sporting longer length tops a few inches above crotch point. Longer length also creates a wonderful visual layering effect as the top peeps out. It’s a win.

Models sporting shorter, less flattering tops with pants.

An article in yesterday’s Wall Street Journal reports how Dallas product designer and marketer, Cricket Lee, attempts to standardize women’s clothing sizes and fits in the US. She has created a sizing system called Fitlogic, which sets a universal standard for sizing women’s clothes based on measurements and body types. The Fitlogic system categorizes women into three shapes:

• Thick waist and thin hips (Straight)
• Curvy but proportional (Curvy)
• Thin waist and round bottom (Round)

You can find your fitlogic fit by answering a few simple questions. I entered my measurements and received the following response:

“The Fitlogic Fitfinder cannot find a size meeting the measurements you have entered. We understand how important the proper fit is and how difficult measuring yourself can often be. Please take a moment to double-check your entries and proceed with the Fitlogic Fitfinder once more”.

I can assure you that I measured myself properly and entered the data correctly. Perhaps I’m in the 10% minority (the article does say that the algorithm currently works for 90% of women), but the reality is that women’s bodies defy standardization. If you struggle to find pants that fit, the best remedy is to get as close as possible and then do alterations to perfect the fit.

Watch this video to get a simple explanation of the Fitlogic system.

When a model looks fab in an ankle length skirt, chances are high she’s almost six foot tall. Women of average height and shorter somehow look as if they have been swallowed up by the skirt. This is not a flattering look.

Skirt lengths around the knee tend to work for all body types. Visually, a hemline that cuts the legs somewhere in the middle is where your legs will look their longest and slimmest. Extra-petite women tend to look better with their hemlines raised a little shorter. If you do prefer to go longer, a structured skirt to the mid-calf with a fab pair of shoes or boots can also look great.

Ankle length is a much better look when it comes to dresses that create an unbroken line from head to toe. You’ll see ever-so-petite Eva Longoria sport a long dress on the red carpet with style. National costumes like the Indian Sari or Malaysian Sarong work on petite, small framed women because they look more like dresses than the separates that they are.

For more on this topic, join the discussion in the YLF forum.

Thank you for last week’s informative comments on Trinny & Susannah’s twelve body shape definitions. Overall, I’m left with the impression that people find them a little confusing. Perhaps the simpler approach of sticking to five simple categories is more effective after all.

Here are some additional thoughts on using body types to maximize your style quotient:

1. Don’t expect an exact match: Instead of boxing a person into one category, I prefer to suggest that they tend towards a particular body type. It is impossible to create a small set of shapes that matches all of our unique bodies, but a few rudimentary generalizations can be made to create rough guidelines.
2. Use the definitions as a starting point…: Even if you’re unsure about your exact body type, chances are high that you will at least tend towards one of my five categories. This makes for a good starting point. Once you understand the basics of what’s recommended for this shape, you can zone in on the specifics and concentrate on which cuts and fits look best.
3. ...but focus on your unique body: Whether you have a short or long neck, a large or small bust, a short or long waist and a flat or full tummy will all play a role. In the end it’s all about figuring out what looks best on your body rather than categorizing your body shape. Nicole’s comment sums this up perfectly.
4. Use multiple categories if necessary: Some people find similarities with more than one category. For example, you may tend towards an hourglass but your slightly fuller thighs have you also following some of the rules for the pretty pear. Note that some types are not compatible: you can’t be a mixture of the pretty pear and the inverted triangle because these shapes are completely opposite.
5. Rules are made to be broken: You might find that you can break some of your body type rules because you have a stronger feature that lets you “get away with it”. Again, body type is a starting point, but your unique body has the final word.

I enjoyed The Body Shape Bible because it addresses real women with real bodies. I don’t personally find Trinny and Susannah’s nomenclature offensive, but I can understand how some people might feel this way (after all, no-one likes thinking of themselves as a “brick”). The overall tone of what they are saying about ALL women’s bodies is positive and in no way harmful to any body image.

Trinny and Susannah of the original British reality TV show “What Not to Wear”, recently launched their latest book: The Body Shape Bible. Their mantra throughout the book is consistent: “Forget your size, discover your shape and transform yourself”.

Dressing for your body type is also a strong theme on youlookfab.com and I use five body types as a frame of reference (the pear, apple, rectangle, hourglass and inverted triangle). Trinny and Susannah have identified twelve definitive women’s body shapes in their new book which I found very interesting. In each case, it’s the proportion and not the size that matters. So whether you are a slim, average or larger version of a body type, the same dressing principles will apply.

The twelve body shapes are really a more detailed breakdown of the five that I use. There are three pears,

• The Skittle – average size bust, slim waist, okay tummy with big thighs and chunky calves (e.g. Halle Berry)
• The Bell – small shoulders, bust and waist, short waist with big thighs and bottom (e.g. Hillary Clinton)
• The Pear – small bust, long waist, flat tummy, saddle bags and heavy legs (e.g. Sandra Bullock)

…two apples,

• The Apple – average bust, tummy larger than bust with flat bottom and okay legs (e.g. Kathy Bates)
• The Vase – large bust, gently curving long waist, hips same width as bust with slim thighs and legs (e.g. Kate Winslet)

…two rectangles,

• The Column – shoulder width same as hip width with a slight waist and long legs (e.g. Nicole Kidman)
• The Brick – broad shoulders, no waist, average tummy, flat bottom with chunky thighs and calves (e.g. Kim Cattrell)

…two hourglasses,

• The Cello – large bust, hips, bottom and thighs with slim lower legs (e.g. Oprah Winfrey)
• The Hourglass – large bust, small and short waist, large hips and full thighs (e.g. Salma Hayek)

…and three inverted triangles,

• The Goblet – broad shoulders, large bust, no waist with narrow hips and long legs (e.g. Catherine Zeta Jones)
• The Cornet – broad shoulders, small bust, no waist with slim hips and slim long legs (e.g. Cameron Diaz)
• The Lollipop – large bust with slight waist, slim hips and long legs (e.g. Angelina Jolie)

I like their comprehensive body type descriptions and hope that this information helps you to identify your body type more accurately. Do you feel that the extra details make the descriptions easier to use? Can you identify your body type?

The dropped waist coat is not a mainstream item, but it’s certainly making a fashion statement. It was particularly popular in London stores a few months ago and I’m seeing more of this silhouette here in the US. The style is sweet but hard to wear. You’ll need to be slender, tall and small hipped to pull this one off. It’s instantly widening and leg-shortening on most body types, especially if there is gathering on the hip seam. I say no to this style if you’re not a gazelle-like rectangle or an inverted triangle.

If you like the trapeze jacket look, but you’re battling to find a shape that’s flattering, you might find these guidelines helpful:

• Length – it’s extremely important to get the length of this jacket right. The style is best when it grazes your hipbone. Going shorter can also work, but going longer can be tricky unless you have the body type (hour-glass, inverted-triangle or rectangle). If this style hits you on the wrong part of your thighs, it’s going to look dumpy. If you’re short waisted, try the petites department even if you don’t usually shop there.
• Tailoring – swing jackets have to fit snugly on the shoulders. You’ll end up with a sloppy shoulder if they don’t. Strong shoulder lines are essential for a flattering A-line silhouette.
• Sleeve width – opt for a sleeve that’s three quarter length and not as voluminous. This will add structure to your frame.
• Slightly swing – choose a style that swings out subtly and is not as wide at the torso.
• Keep it plain – select a fairly streamlined and basic version instead of a style that’s yoked, gathered and printed.

The trapeze jacket is not the best style for women with large bust lines. Well endowed woman still look best when they maximize the shape of their waistlines. I have been able to make A-line jackets work for this body type if I adhere to the guidelines above and keep the style unbuttoned to emphasize a long vertical line. Busty ladies can also opt for trapeze styles with V or scooped necklines (Icy hit the nail on the head with her suggestion yesterday).

All three of these Trapeze jacket styles are hipbone-grazing or shorter, streamlined and tailored. I can personally vouch for the yellow style on the left, which I own and is particularly flattering.

Look no further because you have excellent and affordable options. Wide Widths boasts the largest selection of wide calf boot styles on the Internet. The knee-high and calf-high boots on this site are especially good for women whose calf measurements are from 16 to 18 inches. They ship internationally, stock up to a size 13 and carry extra-wide foot sizes. They don’t offer a Zappos-like breadth of styles, but their focused choices are timeless, tasteful and current. Thank you Moviegirlerica for sharing this information. It’s nice to know that you were happy with their helpful and efficient service. I’ve popped a few of my favourite styles below.

Cube, Grant. Kiersten and Jerry - wide styles from Wide Widths.

Stylists and image consultants often swear by the fact that you’ll lengthen your legs by wearing the same colour shoes and legwear. While I agree with this style tip, as a strict rule it can get boring, especially if your daily dress is business casual. Contrasting the colour of your footwear with your pants or jeans is striking and makes an outfit pop.

I believe that lengthening your legs has more to do with the fit and length of your pants, and the style of your shoes. If your pants are bootcut, flared or wide (not skinny), and they skim the surface of the ground when you wear heels, you’ll achieve that long lean vertical line despite the colour of your shoes. And pointy toed peds will elongate this line even further .

By all means sport an alternative colour shoe to your legwear if you fancy that idea. You don’t need to have long slim gams to pull off the look if you adhere to other important leg-lengthening rules. Adding contrasting and eye-catching shoes to a classic ensemble is a perfect way to keep your look hip when current trends aren’t your cup of tea.