Whenever I visit San Francisco I’m impressed with the high style quotient. This weekend was no different. Daytime street fashion was a uniform of jeans, trench coats, ballet flats or fashion sneakers, and funky accessories.

• Denim was either boot cut, straight or skinny.
• Trenches were short or just above the knee.
• Trapeze jackets and tailored blazers were a popular alternative to trenches.
• Ballet flats and Converse sneakers were everywhere.
• Large flat totes ruled supreme.
• Trendy specs were in abundance.
• The colours were black, white, cream, tan, grey, red, brown.

There were no heels or wide-legged pants, and very few T-shirts to be seen. I only spotted three people wearing their pants too short.

Things slipped once I was back at the airport. Velour sweats, oversized-T-shirts, clingy cropped hoodies, yoga pants, pajama pants, crocs, hiking boots, polar fleece, fanny packs, flip-flops, thick white athletic socks and big athletic sneakers were everywhere. And I stopped counting how many men and women were wearing their pant lengths too short.

This recent article in UK Guardian reports that fashion e-tail is a big growth area in the United Kingdom, with 97% of British web users shopping online. Apparently 36% of these shoppers are buying clothes. This is an increase of 40% in the past two years.

I only started shopping online regularly about 18 months ago. Clothing, footwear and accessories are extremely tangible and the thought of purchasing a product without inspecting it or trying it on was beyond my comprehension. In the end it was the frustration of not getting a particular size, colour or style in brick and mortar stores that won me over.

I started doing the Zappos thing and was pleasantly surprised at how painless it was. Their product reviews are accurate and the shipping is free. I gained online shopping confidence and started ordering a variety of product categories from Esprit, Nordstrom, Tulle, Spiegel, Macy’s and Bare Necessities. So far so good.

I’m still discerning about what I order on-line. It isn’t always possible, but I prefer to order a clothing item via the internet after I’ve seen it in the flesh. I also like to order from sites that allow in-store returns. I buy a small proportion of my clothes online - probably less than 5%. But for underwear and shoes the online percentage is closer to 50%.

Tell us about your online shopping habits. How much of your wardrobe is purchased through e-tail? Do you return a sizable portion of what you purchase through the internet? Which items do you prefer to buy online and which do your prefer to purchase in store?

Work and family visits take me to Europe frequently and I enjoy observing fashion across the continents. Trends are generally the same, but cultural and regional preferences do create important differences. For example, skirts were big in London last Autumn but virtually non-existent in America. Instead, dresses were the “it” item over here.

Spring 2008 was officially launched in Euro stores this month, which made the timing perfect for my visit to Spain last week. Spanish-based fashion retail stores offer an excellent overview of European fashion trends. Here is a summary of what the new season brought to Barcelona last week.

Colours:

• Brights - tomato red, watermelon coral, citrus yellow, kelly green, lipstick pink, mandarin orange and cobalt blue
• Pastels – antique pink
• Neutrals – army green, mushroom brown, warm tan, ink blue, cream, white and black

Patterns:

• Florals both large, small, monochromatic and brightly coloured
• Black and cream gingham
• Earth toned tribal designs

Fabrics:

• Leather
• Metallic silver and gold man made and natural fibre blends
• Creased futuristic polyester blends
• Linen
• Silk
• Rayon and cotton blends
• Denim
• Cracked patent

Silhouettes:

• Skinnies were by far the most popular silhouette for casual pants. Leg openings for skinnies ranged from extremely tapered to straight. Fashion critics who predicted that skinnies would be gone in one season were so wrong. We are going into our fifth season for this style and it has become a mainstream basic. You can’t wear a voluminous tunic with anything else and nothing tucks into boots quite as well as a pair of skinny pants.
• Bootcuts were the order of the day for pants that weren’t skinny and many of them higher in the rise.
• Knee length pencil skirts in denim and thick cottons.
• 80’s “membership jackets”, but fabulous this time around. They’re fitted, tailored, sometimes belted and not bomber-shaped like they were 25 years ago – a modern day military look.
• “Safari” inspired styling on dresses, skirts and jackets.
• Belted trench coats in every colour and fabrication.
• Fitted biker jackets in black and cream
• Trapeze jackets
• Belted jackets to the hip were just as popular as trapeze and baby doll styles.
• Billowing soft tunics with wait cinching belts
• See through soft blouses either tucked into high-waisted pants or left un-tucked and cinched in at the waist with a belt.
• Voluminous short shift dresses and waist-focusing fit-and-flare ‘50’s dresses
• Soft printed ankle length maxi dresses

Shoes:

• 80’s inspired ballet flats (the pointy-toed kind with uniform circular cutouts patterned into leather or plastic)
• ballet flats with ankle straps
• Heels with “T-strap” detailing
• Floral printed pumps
• Gladiator sandals
• Wedges
• Converse sneakers in canvas and patent

I didn’t see wide-legged pants, colour blocked shoes, 50’s full skirts, acid wash jeans, shoulder pads or preppy blazers. But these trends might follow in the next few months. I’m particularly excited about the new season’s bright colours, gingham prints, military inspired styling, higher rises, biker influences, soft blouses, belted jackets, tunics, waist-focusing dresses, patent Converse sneakers and 80’s inspired ballet flats. Which Spring trends get you excited?

Ballet flats that are characteristic of the season: circular cutout, floral and ankle strapped. The circular cutout ballet flats in Spain were less sporty and generally more retro 80’s looking than this Michael Kors style. I swear I had a plastic fuchsia pair as a teeny bopper and can scarcely believe that I bought a virtually identical cream pair in leather a few days ago.

I regard Spain to be the leader in fashion retail because it is home to Inditex, one of the largest fashion distributors in the world and the holding company for eight different chain stores, of which Zara is the biggest and best known. The others are Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti, Pull and Bear, Bershka, Oysho, Zara Home and Kiddy’s Class. Inditex’s 3700-odd stores are represented in a whopping 68 different counties. Most of the merchandise available in these stores is made in Spain – not China.

What impresses me most about Inditex chains is the affordability of their highly creative, sophisticated and current designs. Each chain focuses on a niche market and age group, with levels of quality appropriate to the target market. But even their higher end Massimo Dutti store is more affordable than Banana Republic. I am convinced that this helps to raise the style quotient in Europe. It’s easier to look good when there are gorgeously stylish clothes and shoes at thrifty prices around every corner.

This is what I miss in America. You can absolutely get phenomenal clothes and shoes in the US at fabulous boutiques and department stores, but it is usually expensive. There is no American equivalent to Spain’s Zara, Sweden’s H&M, Britain’s French Connection, France’s Promod or Holland’s Mexx. Banana Republic probably comes closest, but its fashion has lacked flair recently and isn’t cheap unless you purchase on sale.

I hope that Spain continues to spread it’s gloriously affordable and fabulously wearable fashion all over America. Then we too can enjoy eye-catching boutique looks at inexpensive mainstream prices.

Zara in Paris.

European style is distinctive and you’ll notice its flavour as soon as you set foot on Euro soil. I’m in beautiful Barcelona, where men and women are generally well turned out, and I love it. While it’s the Parisians that lead haute couture, and the Londoners that lead prêt-a-porter; it’s arguably the Spaniards that lead fashion retail. Spain is home to Zara, one of the most successful clothing retail chains.

In true urban Euro style, the number one uniform on the streets of Barcelona across all age groups and body types is jeans or pants tucked into flat knee-high boots with either a belted knitted tunic or shorter piece of tailored knitwear. The look is finished off with coat, scarf and fab sling bag. Practical, put together and stylish. The same ensemble with flat ankle boots or fashion sneakers is the next most popular choice and to my delight there are loads of women wearing good old Converse. It’s Winter, so ballet flats are few and far between. The highest heels you’ll see on the streets are two inches, but that’s rare too. People in Barcelona commute on foot so it’s all about stylish flats and dressing in layers. The skirt-and-boots look isn’t as popular as it was in London, but streamlined knee-length puffer jackets, cropped leather biker styles and urban boots are a favourite and look great.

I chose not to bring my riding boots, but I’m right at home during the day in dark straight leg jeans, short, faux fur trimmed, belted leather jacket, a variety of fitted turtle necks and scarves, comfy cream and black Converse and black, biker sling bag. My heeled, cream patent ankle boots, dressy tops, cobalt coat and clutch come out at night. Easy!

Last week The Seattle Times confirmed that Swedish “high fashion low cost” giant H&M plans to open not one, but three stores in the greater Seattle area:

• University Village (which we knew)
• Southcenter mall in Tukwila (their largest store in Seattle)
• 520 Pike Tower downtown (great news)

The article points out that the chain stores are expected to open in Autumn 2008 instead of Spring. This makes the wait for Seattleites a little longer, but is well worth it if three stores are in the pipeline instead of the original one.

After all the hype I’ve created I hope that the Seattle stores are high on H&M’s priorities. I’ve shopped at H&M in Asia, Europe and America and the stores are not created equal. As is true for all fashion chains, the best merchandise goes to their top stores. There’s only one way to find out, so roll on Autumn and let’s see what they have to offer.

Lucky magazine presented their “first annual shopping awards” in the November edition. They compared views on the best shopping destinations between the so called fashion experts and a sample of the magazines readership. The best American department stores, chain stores and websites were judged side by side and the results were very interesting.

For department stores, the industry experts shared the awards between the major department stores. Nordstrom did best and was chosen three times. Readers were more decisive, clearly picking Nordstrom and Macy’s as their favourite departments stores. Nordstrom was also on top with the readers too, but where experts thought they deserved an award for beauty, readers thought they deserved it for their selection of emerging designers. Being a loyal Nordies shopper (and given that they are going through a rough patch at the moment), this made my heart happy.

When it came to chain stores, the Lucky readership agreed with the industry’s choice of H&M for hot off the runway looks, but preferred Forever 21 for party clothes and the Gap for jeans and weekend wear. I was surprised that Gap came up as a frequent favourite, that Forever 21 was mentioned, and that Zara failed to come up at all. But it came as no surprise that the experts and Lucky readers agreed that Sephora was best for beauty products, Nine West was best for shoes and Victoria Secret was best for lingerie.

With websites, Zappos.com came up as a favourite for both the industry and Lucky readers for best shoe site; while Bluefly.com came up as a favourite for both parties as best bargains site. Nordstrom.com was a favourite on both sides for best handbag site, as was Shopbop.com for best young designers. To my surprise Lucky readers chose Gap.com for best denim site, while the experts favoured Ronherman.com and Bluebee.com for their denim.

The detailed results are below. Any surprises?

Imagine if the government set out to measure the nation’s height, weight and curves in order to improve the sizing of clothes in retail fashion. Well, Spain’s health ministry has taken on this mammoth task. The goal of the study is to ensure that fashion houses “promise to fit their clothes to real women, rather than the other way round”.

From a recent article in The Independent:

Last month technicians from Spain’s health ministry visited the first of 59 towns across the country to measure 10,415 Spanish women, aged between 12 and 70, to find out what size and shape the nation’s females really are. The nationwide measuring operation continues until 21 December, and results are to be announced next spring.

Women are chosen at random from the city’s census and invited to participate in an “anthropometric study”, which the state-sponsored National Consumers Institute claims to be the first in the world. The aim is to promote “a realisable image of healthy beauty – neither Rubens women nor anorexic girls”, according to the health minister, Bernat Soria. “It is our commitment that beauty and health go hand in hand.”

The results from the study will be used to standardize clothing sizes across the industry.

This step follows Spain’s leadership in banning ultra-thin models from the Madrid catwalks a year ago. And that isn’t the end of it…

The government has also extracted a promise from retailers to banish skeletal plastic mannequins from shop windows – said to encourage unrealistic ideals of beauty – and replace them over time with those sized at least 38 – a British 10 [this is roughly an American 6, where mannequin’s today typically wear an American 2] .

Regardless of your position on the government playing such an active role in consumer affairs, these are fascinating moves. Spain has tremendous clout in the fashion world because they are home to the biggest and most successful fast-fashion retail chain in the world – Zara. I’m looking forward to next Spring when the results of the study will be announced. It will be incredibly interesting to see whether they can be applied successfully, and whether other countries follow Spain’s example.

Will idealizing the skinny ever be out of fashion?

For a long time I wasn’t inspired by anything at J. Crew. I hadn’t been shopping there with clients for ages. That changed a few months ago when I discovered how super their women’s range was looking. Their colourful, preppy, modern-classic look is not for everyone, but certainly worth a look this season if that’s your style. Their cashmere special ($99 for a plain cru), wool coat assortment, dressy knitted tunics, trapeze cardigans, fine wale corduroy, checked wide-legged pants and cozy lounge knits really caught my eye. It’s a pity that their on-line shopping site does not do their clothing justice. You don’t seem to get the same impact when you browse on-line as you do when you browse in store. So reserve your judgment until you get to a store! J. Crew remains a price point above Banana Republic and they seldom go on sale, but their clothing is beautifully made and I’m happy to have them back on my shopping list.

Images from the J. Crew Autumn 2007 look book.

London’s Indian cuisine, old and new architecture, urban edge and high style quotient make it a city that I love to visit. Much like Hong Kong and New York, you see cutting edge fashion being worn effortlessly on the street by everyday people going about their day. It’s fabulous. The London look is not about pristine fashion items that are perfectly coordinated. People mix old and ultra trendy pieces eclectically and tastefully. The end result is an urban and practical sense of style that really works.

After a few days on London streets last week, I concluded that the most popular look was skinny jeans tucked into fashion forward, flat or mid-heel, slouchy ankle and knee-high boots. Skirts with slouchy knee-length boots came a close second. Riding boots, tunics and trapeze jackets were also common, all of which made for a casual yet tailored sense of street fashion. And practical too. Tucking jeans into boots makes great sense when the weather is wet and chilly. Soggy feet and sopping pant hems are sure to put a damper on anyone’s day. Something I know all too well traipsing around the streets of Seattle.

Slouchy boots, like these styles from from UK footwear store Faith, are all the rage on the streets of London.