Archive for the 'Instant Style Tips' Category

The right length for tops worn over pants

Monday, April 28th, 2008

Tops over pants look best when they’re worn a little longer. One to three inches above your crotch point (somewhere between where the inseam of your pants start and the zip fly of your pants end) is the perfect length. Hip-bone length is perfect for skirts, but not long enough when you’re wearing pants.

You need to find the specific length that works best for you. Generally, the curvier the thighs, the longer you’ll need to wear your tops. It makes a huge difference when a pretty pear shape wears her tops a little longer. But don’t wear them too long. Tops slightly over crotch point create a horizontal line over the widest part of your body, which is unflattering for pear shapes (but ok for inverted triangles). Fortunately, a top that’s too long can be ruched or “scrunched” to its correct length if you’re short-waisted.

If you haven’t bought tops over the last two years, your cupboard is probably full of shorter lengths. Fashion has moved on and I’m thrilled with the flattering update. Demote shorter tops to wear with skirts and sport a longer length for pants.

Stretch Viscose JacketKaren Zambos Vintage Couture Blouse & True Religion Brand Jeans Cuffed ShortsTwinkle by Wenlan Top & Dittos Stretch Denim Shorts

Models sporting longer length tops a few inches above crotch point. Longer length also creates a wonderful visual layering effect as the top peeps out. It’s a win.

Cotton Twill Flap Pocket JacketEmpire Ruched ScoopneckElbow Sleeve Striped V-Neck Cardigan

Models sporting shorter, less flattering tops with pants.

White, off-white, cream and beige

Thursday, April 24th, 2008

I frequently refer to these light neutrals. Several people have requested an explanation of the differences between them, particularly between cream and beige. I’m happy to oblige.

  • White: Optical white is a blindingly bright white. A pair of white jeans is usually optical white.
  • Off-white: This is a dirty white like the colour of bone. It’s as if optical white was mixed with a spot of grey. It’s a cold colour and tends to look good on people who can wear light grey close to the face.
  • Cream: The colour of pearls, ivory and liquid whipping cream. This tone is warmer and richer than white and off-white. It contains a hint of yellow and looks good on people who wear warm colours well.
  • Beige: Tan, khaki, taupe, nude and stone are all versions of beige. They are not cream or off-white. They are light browns. You’ll find chinos in this colour. Deepening a shade of beige results in camel and caramel coloured hues which are richer and generally more flattering.

Beige is hard to wear close to the face unless you’re dark-skinned and even then it’s best when matched with a contrasting colour (like black or a bright). Beige comes to life when the fabric is iridescent or mixed with metallic lurex thread. This gives the colour depth and interest and that’s often the best solution to wearing beige close to the face. As a bottom, beige is boring. It can look conservative and I do not often encourage this look unless it is required.

The “whites” (white, off-white and cream) are better choices for tops and bottoms. They offer both a modern classic and contemporary edge that’s forever fresh and versatile. These shades pop whereas beige does not. It’s a question of choosing “your white”. Some people look better in cream, while others look better in bone or white. Experiment and try a form of white instead of beige. You’ll be surprised.

Nanette Lepore Seaside Knit JacketRebecca Taylor Petal Front Chiffon TeeLauren by Ralph Lauren Pleat Silk Sheath DressDIESEL® 'Cherock' Stretch Denim TrousersJackson Chino TrouserDemi Boot Cut Trouser

Top: Off-white pea-coat, a cream blouse and dress.
Bottom: White jeans, beige and taupe pants.
My whites are white and cream on top and at the bottom (but not together). I look dreadful in off-white and beige and steer clear of them close to the face. Beige pants are not my style so I don’t wear those either.

Walk shorts and capris

Thursday, April 17th, 2008

Cropped pants fall into two categories: walk shorts and capris. The distinction is based on length rather than silhouette:

  • Walk shorts are pants that are cropped anywhere from just above the knee to the widest part of the calf. Clamdiggers, bemudas, pedal pushers and culottes are all forms of walk shorts.
  • Capris are pants that are cropped below the calf and above the ankle. I am allergic to pants at this length. They are extremely leg shortening and unflattering. Models that sport capri lengths wear 4 inch heels which visually raises the hemline. I rest my case.

Retailers and magazines often refer to clamdiggers as capris, which confuses the issue. As long as cropped pants fall on, or above, the widest part of your calf, I’m in favour of them. Anything longer looks dumpy. Stacey London and Clinton Kelly from What Not To Wear are not opposed to capri-length pants (which explains why Stacey wears them throughout her book “Dress your Best”). We will agree to disagree.

Cropped Matchstick Jean in Clean Rinse WashJoe's Jeans 'Welt Kicker' White Crop Stretch JeansKUT from the Kloth Denim Bermuda Shorts

Walk shorts at the perfect length (clamdiggers, culottes and bemudas)

Style&co. Capri with Drawcord HemEileen Fisher Linen Ankle PantsRobert Rodriguez Tuxedo Stripe Jodhpur Pants

Capris at an awfully unflattering length.

Beat belly bulge with this knitted top

Wednesday, April 16th, 2008

A sleeveless, wrap knitted top with wide welt is flattering. I’ve tried this style on various body types and I’m always surprised at how well it works. It starts to make sense when I break it down:

  • The armholes are cut away to reveal a pretty shoulder bone. Sleeveless tops usually look better when you show your shoulder bone.
  • The blouson effect is forgiving around the mid-riff area. It’s the perfect camouflage for those with a little extra around the tummy.
  • The wide welt provides structure. Make sure that the welt starts below your navel and is comfortable over the belly. Its ruching effect is another plus.
  • The V-neck and wrap feature are elongating and slimming. The wrap feature gives a larger bosom room, and a smaller bosom volume.
  • The shawl collar is great layered under V-neck jackets.

Soft, silky knits feel heavenly against our skin, but are often clingy in the wrong places. This style offers a superb solution. Wear it with a camisole because the front opening tends to part when you move. Comfortable, versatile and chic. So much better than a T-shirt and just as easy to launder.

Black Pima Wrap TankBlue Pima Wrap TankSafari Pima Wrap Tank

Ana from the forum found this particularly good example of the style, available from Bluefly.com.

The indispensible trench

Tuesday, February 26th, 2008

I talk about the trench coat at the beginning of every season because it is a crucial part of any wardrobe. It is an ideal lightweight coat for a four-seasons-climate, and the only coat you’ll need for warmer regions. A fab trench pulls together most outfits and can be dressed up or down: styled up a notch with dark denims or slacks and dressy shoes; or casual with jeans and fashion sneakers. The trench cuts across all lifestyles, age groups and body types and it’s a question of finding the style that works best for you.

Some things to remember as you search for that perfect trench…

  • Trench coats don’t need to have a strict, dressy and classic appearance like the traditional Burberry style. They can be playful and casual. The voluminous trend has given rise to the unbelted A-line and cocoon shaped trench which can be equally chic.
  • Spring trenches are often lighter in weight, brighter in colour and shorter in the sleeve than the styles we see in Autumn. You can get away with having one trench for year round use if you choose your style wisely.
  • Make sure that you purchase a trench that works for your lifestyle. Keep the fabric and look casual if your life is casual. Select a dressier style if you dress smart casually or business casually daily. It is easier to dress a smarter trench style down than it is to dress a casual trench style up.

I have a black, fully lined, machine washable, stretch sateen single-breasted trench coat that ends just above my knee. I’ve had it for years and it’s the most versatile item in my wardrobe. I wear it casually with jeans and Converse, or smart casually over a dressy top, dark denims and heels. It’s perfect with my slacks on business casual days and takes me straight to a cocktail party at night over a short formal dress. It cost a pretty penny at the time, but the investment has proved its return a hundred times over. I cannot imagine my wardrobe functioning without the perfect trench.

Back-Tab Mac JacketTextured Canvas Cropped TrenchCity Twill Trench Coat

Double Weave Cotton CoatSoia & Kyo Convertible Collar Trench CoatBCX Lantern-Sleeve Sateen Trench Coat

An assortment of casual (top left), smart casual and dressy trenches (bottom right). My Spring trench needs replacing and I have my eye on the white Soia and Kyo style (center bottom row).

The trouble with ankle length skirts

Tuesday, February 19th, 2008

When a model looks fab in an ankle length skirt, chances are high she’s almost six foot tall. Women of average height and shorter somehow look as if they have been swallowed up by the skirt. This is not a flattering look.

Skirt lengths around the knee tend to work for all body types. Visually, a hemline that cuts the legs somewhere in the middle is where your legs will look their longest and slimmest. Extra-petite women tend to look better with their hemlines raised a little shorter. If you do prefer to go longer, a structured skirt to the mid-calf with a fab pair of shoes or boots can also look great.

Ankle length is a much better look when it comes to dresses that create an unbroken line from head to toe. You’ll see ever-so-petite Eva Longoria sport a long dress on the red carpet with style. National costumes like the Indian Sari or Malaysian Sarong work on petite, small framed women because they look more like dresses than the separates that they are.

For more on this topic, join the discussion in the YLF forum.

The slimming scarf

Thursday, December 20th, 2007

A long scarf that’s “pulled through a loop” or tied in any other way so that the ends form a vertical line down the front of your body has a slimming effect. Worn this way, the scarf creates a long lean line that is surprisingly flattering. Remember to think of a scarf as an item that you can add to your ensemble on mild Autumn and Winter days without a coat. The scarf is often the first accessory to come out in Europe when it gets chilly (before a jacket or coat), so don’t feel that you have to save the item for freezing temperatures.

Nordstrom Airy Cashmere WrapChunky Wool ScarfCashmere Plaid Border ScarfOur Exclusive Silk/Cashmere Wrap

I love everything about scarves. They keep me warm and elongated, add colour to my outfit and complete the look. I keep my scarf pulled through a loop because that works best for my style (the blue scarf on the right), but here are more ways to tie a scarf in keeping with its vertical appeal.

The best top for patterned skirts

Wednesday, November 14th, 2007

I often see fabulous patterned or checked skirts in wardrobes that are left unworn because matching them up with the right top is difficult. There is no need to re-invent the wheel when it comes to picking out a top to match this type of skirt (either casual or smart). All you need is a simple hipbone length fitted knit top or piece of knitwear while your skirt does all the talking.

  • Keep the neckline V or scooped if you like to elongate your look, or if you have a busty chest.
  • Keep your neckline high or cowl if you’re long necked or small-chested.
  • Look for side seam and center front ruching details if you have a little extra around the middle and remember that form fitting knitwear is less clingy than form fitting jersey knit.

It is possible to match these skirts with tops, collared shirts and blouses with extra style and colour detail, but this gets much more complicated. So stick to the flop-proof knit top and you won’t go wrong. Finish off the look with a waist-cinching belt (skinny or wide), one piece of statement jewelry and fab shoes or boots. It’s always a good idea to buy a top along with a patterned skirt if you don’t already have one. This way you’ll be sure to wear your skirt!

OutfitRayon Drape Shoulder TopRaglan Sleeve Cowl Neck Sweater

Ann Taylor and the Loft often have a good selection of plain knit tops and knitwear that are ideal for skirts, so be sure to look there if you’re looking for that ultra simple skirt top.

Peek-a-boo sleeves are fab and functional

Wednesday, November 7th, 2007

Layering an item with a shorter sleeve (either bracelet, three-quarter or short) over an item with a long sleeve is a perfectly acceptable and hip 70’s-inspired look. While layering in this way won’t work with every sleeve type, there are rules one can follow to ensure a streamlined look:

  • Stick to layering one voluminous sleeve at a time. Volume on the first layer (a sleek cardigan over a lantern sleeve); or volume on the second layer (a bell sleeve over a fitted long sleeved knitted T) are looks that work equally well. Layering with two sets of voluminous sleeves (a bell sleeve over a bell sleeve) at different lengths can also work, but gets tricky, so it’s best to stick with one.
  • Create a colour contrast for the best effect. Contrasting subtle or bold colours with the sleeves that you layer creates an effective statement. It’s when the colour is the same (like black on black) that the effect is less interesting and eye-catching.

Longer sleeves that peek out underneath shorter sleeves can give an outfit a funky and artsy edge. It’s another good reason to buy three-quarter-sleeve outwear.

Anne Klein New York Belt Kimono Sweater JacketValette Mini Check Swing Coat Wool Textured Swing Jacket

Good examples of shorter voluminous second layers worn over sleek long sleeves.

Cropped sleeve outerwear

Tuesday, November 6th, 2007

Three-quarter-length and bracelet-length sleeves are particularly popular on coats and jackets this season. These sleeve lengths are super for Autumn, but a little chilly for Winter. By adding long opera gloves to the look, you’ll create a dramatic ‘40’s fashion effect and keep your forearms warm. Opera gloves are expensive, and might set you back the same amount that you paid for your coat or jacket. But they can be thrifted for a fraction of the price if you fancy the look and are determined to wear it at a price.

The beauty of three-quarter-sleeve outerwear items is that they’ll take you all the way into Spring if they’re not made of heavy Winter fabrications. They’re also perfect for mild Winter temperatures, with or without opera gloves. So if you’re on the fence about purchasing a three-quarter-sleeved coat or jacket, remember that you can extend it’s life into Winter and Spring. Savvy choices about the additions to your wardrobe will help you to get the biggest bang for your fashion buck.

Wool TrenchNordstrom Opera Length Gloves

 
 

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