When a model looks fab in an ankle length skirt, chances are high she’s almost six foot tall. Women of average height and shorter somehow look as if they have been swallowed up by the skirt. This is not a flattering look.

Skirt lengths around the knee tend to work for all body types. Visually, a hemline that cuts the legs somewhere in the middle is where your legs will look their longest and slimmest. Extra-petite women tend to look better with their hemlines raised a little shorter. If you do prefer to go longer, a structured skirt to the mid-calf with a fab pair of shoes or boots can also look great.

Ankle length is a much better look when it comes to dresses that create an unbroken line from head to toe. You’ll see ever-so-petite Eva Longoria sport a long dress on the red carpet with style. National costumes like the Indian Sari or Malaysian Sarong work on petite, small framed women because they look more like dresses than the separates that they are.

For more on this topic, join the discussion in the YLF forum.

A long scarf that’s “pulled through a loop” or tied in any other way so that the ends form a vertical line down the front of your body has a slimming effect. Worn this way, the scarf creates a long lean line that is surprisingly flattering. Remember to think of a scarf as an item that you can add to your ensemble on mild Autumn and Winter days without a coat. The scarf is often the first accessory to come out in Europe when it gets chilly (before a jacket or coat), so don’t feel that you have to save the item for freezing temperatures.

I love everything about scarves. They keep me warm and elongated, add colour to my outfit and complete the look. I keep my scarf pulled through a loop because that works best for my style (the blue scarf on the right), but here are more ways to tie a scarf in keeping with its vertical appeal.

I often see fabulous patterned or checked skirts in wardrobes that are left unworn because matching them up with the right top is difficult. There is no need to re-invent the wheel when it comes to picking out a top to match this type of skirt (either casual or smart). All you need is a simple hipbone length fitted knit top or piece of knitwear while your skirt does all the talking.

• Keep the neckline V or scooped if you like to elongate your look, or if you have a busty chest.
• Keep your neckline high or cowl if you’re long necked or small-chested.
• Look for side seam and center front ruching details if you have a little extra around the middle and remember that form fitting knitwear is less clingy than form fitting jersey knit.

It is possible to match these skirts with tops, collared shirts and blouses with extra style and colour detail, but this gets much more complicated. So stick to the flop-proof knit top and you won’t go wrong. Finish off the look with a waist-cinching belt (skinny or wide), one piece of statement jewelry and fab shoes or boots. It’s always a good idea to buy a top along with a patterned skirt if you don’t already have one. This way you’ll be sure to wear your skirt!

Ann Taylor and the Loft often have a good selection of plain knit tops and knitwear that are ideal for skirts, so be sure to look there if you’re looking for that ultra simple skirt top.

Layering an item with a shorter sleeve (either bracelet, three-quarter or short) over an item with a long sleeve is a perfectly acceptable and hip 70’s-inspired look. While layering in this way won’t work with every sleeve type, there are rules one can follow to ensure a streamlined look:

• Stick to layering one voluminous sleeve at a time. Volume on the first layer (a sleek cardigan over a lantern sleeve); or volume on the second layer (a bell sleeve over a fitted long sleeved knitted T) are looks that work equally well. Layering with two sets of voluminous sleeves (a bell sleeve over a bell sleeve) at different lengths can also work, but gets tricky, so it’s best to stick with one.
• Create a colour contrast for the best effect. Contrasting subtle or bold colours with the sleeves that you layer creates an effective statement. It’s when the colour is the same (like black on black) that the effect is less interesting and eye-catching.

Longer sleeves that peek out underneath shorter sleeves can give an outfit a funky and artsy edge. It’s another good reason to buy three-quarter-sleeve outwear.

Good examples of shorter voluminous second layers worn over sleek long sleeves.

Three-quarter-length and bracelet-length sleeves are particularly popular on coats and jackets this season. These sleeve lengths are super for Autumn, but a little chilly for Winter. By adding long opera gloves to the look, you’ll create a dramatic ‘40’s fashion effect and keep your forearms warm. Opera gloves are expensive, and might set you back the same amount that you paid for your coat or jacket. But they can be thrifted for a fraction of the price if you fancy the look and are determined to wear it at a price.

The beauty of three-quarter-sleeve outerwear items is that they’ll take you all the way into Spring if they’re not made of heavy Winter fabrications. They’re also perfect for mild Winter temperatures, with or without opera gloves. So if you’re on the fence about purchasing a three-quarter-sleeved coat or jacket, remember that you can extend it’s life into Winter and Spring. Savvy choices about the additions to your wardrobe will help you to get the biggest bang for your fashion buck.

Sometimes belted cardigans, blouses, tunics and coats can look gorgeous on the hanger, but odd when you try them on. This is often a case of incorrect belt loop positioning. Even if a garment is the right size and fit, belt loops that are positioned either too high or too low tend to look unflattering. Belted styles need to tie at the smallest part of your natural waist (unless they are specifically designed to fall low on your hips or high under the bust).

But don’t let the incorrect belt loop positioning of a garment put you off before you’ve tried the following:

• Take the belt out of it’s loops and re-position it correctly on your waist. If the garment looks flattering after this adjustment, you can either alter the belt loops, or cut them off and tie the belt without threading it through belt loops.
• Try the garment without the belt. Tailored garments don’t always need belts to give them shape, so it’s worth a try just to make sure.

I have seen people trying to make the most of unflattering belted styles by tying the knot loosely at the back (like a back tie). This is not a good look, especially when the garment is double breasted. If a belted style still doesn’t work after repositioning, don’t buy it.

Left: belts are lower then natural waist, which is not what the style intended.
Right: belts are positioned correctly at the smallest part of the model’s waist.

Closets that I review often have a few items of unflattering and shapeless pieces of knitwear lurking in amongst the cherries. While some boxy knitwear pieces are beyond redemption, others can be transformed with the addition of a waist-cinching belt. Even for the small minority of people that can make boxy knitwear work for them, the belt creates a different look with the same piece of knitwear, effectively increasing its ROI.

This quick and inexpensive style tip is not going to work with chunky knits, which fail to look streamlined no matter what you do to them. I have also found that the look doesn’t work with every body and seems to be more effective as you get closer to the hourglass shape (for fuller figures too). But nothing ventured nothing gained, so give it a try if you have the items or are prepared to invest in a belt. Freshening up a boring piece of knitwear in this way can work wonders for your style and your pocket.

Eileen Fisher is well known for her expensive and impeccably made boxy knitwear. Most of us need a belt like the one on the left to make it flattering.

Bridging pieces allow you to refresh your wardrobe and increase the ROI of items you already own (because they “bridge” a gap in your closet). One effective bridging piece is a knitted top in a neutral or fashion colour. Renew your look fashionably and cost effectively by mixing a new knitted top with an existing jacket and pair of business casual slacks (or jeans).

Banana Republic took me by surprise last week. They have the best selection of bridging knitted tops at the moment. The choice of neckline (high or low), fabric composition (wool or cotton-rich), colour (basic or bright), style (classic or funky), length (short and long) and price point (affordable or cashmere) is impressive. There is something for everyone. Their fine knit gauges make these knitted tops doubly versatile because they suit both casual and business casual environments.

Get to Banana Republic soon if bridging pieces are on your shopping list. The stock is new and seems to be moving quickly.

A selection of assorted knitted tops from Banana Republic. Perfect for work and for weekends, dressed up or down.

Boots are magical. As long as they’re comfortable, I adore them in any size or form. Add the right pair of boots to an outfit and your style quotient doubles. Your wardrobe should therefore include at least a few pairs of versatile boots (unless you live in a year round tropical climate).

This season boasts a whole slew of interesting ankle boot styles that can be adapted to both classic and daring looks:

• Slouchy flat ankle boots are the latest look and in keeping with the retro 80’s revival fad. They work best tucked into skinny or straight leg jeans and were all the rage on the streets of London.
• Cuffed styles are another 80’s inspired trend and great tucked into jeans (without the legwarmers this time around).
• Tapered ankle boots are versatile, smart and sleek with pants or jeans – either skinny, boot cut or wide-legged.
• Wedged versions are streamlined and modern.
• Booties were fringe statements last season but completely mainstream now. It’s the boot with the least coverage and therefore ideal for warmer weather. They are particularly comfortable with elastic inserts at the ankle.

Ankle boots with skirts and dresses is an ultra fashion forward look, but not one that everyone can pull off. It’s not easy getting the shape of an ankle boot to work with the shape of your legs and the silhouette of the skirt. You’ll also need to think about the right type of hose to wear with this look. It is still much easier to pop a pair of fabulous knee-high boots underneath a skirt. Stay tuned for long boots tomorrow.

If you like the trapeze jacket look, but you’re battling to find a shape that’s flattering, you might find these guidelines helpful:

• Length – it’s extremely important to get the length of this jacket right. The style is best when it grazes your hipbone. Going shorter can also work, but going longer can be tricky unless you have the body type (hour-glass, inverted-triangle or rectangle). If this style hits you on the wrong part of your thighs, it’s going to look dumpy. If you’re short waisted, try the petites department even if you don’t usually shop there.
• Tailoring – swing jackets have to fit snugly on the shoulders. You’ll end up with a sloppy shoulder if they don’t. Strong shoulder lines are essential for a flattering A-line silhouette.
• Sleeve width – opt for a sleeve that’s three quarter length and not as voluminous. This will add structure to your frame.
• Slightly swing – choose a style that swings out subtly and is not as wide at the torso.
• Keep it plain – select a fairly streamlined and basic version instead of a style that’s yoked, gathered and printed.

The trapeze jacket is not the best style for women with large bust lines. Well endowed woman still look best when they maximize the shape of their waistlines. I have been able to make A-line jackets work for this body type if I adhere to the guidelines above and keep the style unbuttoned to emphasize a long vertical line. Busty ladies can also opt for trapeze styles with V or scooped necklines (Icy hit the nail on the head with her suggestion yesterday).

All three of these Trapeze jacket styles are hipbone-grazing or shorter, streamlined and tailored. I can personally vouch for the yellow style on the left, which I own and is particularly flattering.